Not as a destination, but as a journey.

Chasing Mayon: A Scenic Journey from Samar to the Volcano of Legends

We were still riding high from our unforgettable adventure in Biri, Northern Samar, when we began our next chapter — a scenic, soul-stirring road trip that would lead us straight into the heart of Albay to meet one of the Philippines’ most iconic natural wonders: Mayon Volcano.

Our journey had started in Parañaque City, and after weaving through provinces, crossing waters, and witnessing rural beauty unfold mile by mile, we were now bound for something greater — something legendary.

As night fell, we reached Allen Port in Samar. There, we drove onto a sleeper ferry — car and all — for a peaceful one-and-a-half-hour crossing over the San Bernardino Strait. By the time we docked at Matnog Port, the moon hung low, and we pushed on through the dark, sleepy roads toward Sorsogon City. A pre-booked hotel awaited us there, and after a long day of travel, we couldn’t have been more thankful for the soft bed and quiet rest.

Morning in Bicol: The Road to Mayon Begins

At first light, we were back on the road — the fresh Bicol air filled with promise. Our next stop: the historic Cagsawa Ruins, known not just for its beauty but as one of the best spots to witness Mayon’s perfect cone.

The drive itself was a gentle one. Smooth roads carried us past small roadside stalls offering pasalubong — the thoughtful little gifts Filipinos bring home from their travels. Handwoven baskets, coconut shell crafts, and quirky home tools lined the shelves. Town after town, we found more to marvel at. Roadside eateries invited us to sample the region’s culinary treasures — we couldn’t resist trying pili nuts, buttery and crisp, and of course, the region’s pride: Bicol Express, a fiery pork stew that lives up to its name.

As we drove, the excitement built. Somewhere ahead, hidden by rising clouds and towering trees, was Mayon.

Just as a side topic. When we planned this trip, my companions wanted to fly to Northern Samar which was our main destination. And we could have - because there is an airport in Catarman, the Catarman National Airport (CRM) - which is only about 40 minutes from Lavezarez, the gateway to Biri Islands. But I insisted on driving. I am so thrilled that they agreed on this road trip. I always say that the journey matters just as much as the destination

The Volcano That Plays Hide and Seek

Mayon is famously shy.

We had been warned: seeing her perfectly might not happen. Locals told us stories of people who stayed for days and never saw more than her foggy skirt. Moisture from her thick green slopes rises constantly, and if the wind is still, clouds cling to her like a veil. It’s a daily dance between the elements.

Yet as we neared the ruins, hope rose. The skies seemed to be teasing. We craned our necks, eyes scanning the horizon. And just for a moment — there she was. That legendary cone, nearly symmetrical, peeking out through a break in the mist. Then gone again. But the glimpse alone was enough to make our hearts race.

At the Foot of Power: Cagsawa Ruins

We soon arrived at Cagsawa, the once-grand church turned stone skeleton. The bell tower, still standing, watches over broken walls and scattered rocks — all that remains since Mayon’s catastrophic eruption in 1814, when the town was buried under ash and volcanic mudflows. More than a thousand lives were lost.

Some say it was a natural disaster. Others, especially among the older locals, whisper of a divine reckoning — punishment for a town grown arrogant and greedy. When I asked a vendor about this version, she just shrugged. “That’s what old people say,” she offered, half believing, half dismissing.

The site, for all its tragedy, is hauntingly beautiful. Around it, life continues — souvenir stands hum with customers, a small restaurant sizzles with Bicol Express, and in the background, Mayon keeps her secrets beneath her clouds.

An Unexpected Adventure: Riding ATVs to Mayon’s Base

No trip to Mayon is complete without a little dirt on your shoes — or, in our case, mud on the tires. Just near the ruins, we were offered an ATV ride. For two seniors like us, it felt a bit daring. Still, curiosity won.

There are several trails to choose from — short, scenic routes for beginners and longer, more rugged paths that bring you up close to the volcano’s lower slopes. We chose a mid-level route, the perfect mix of excitement and comfort.

But the mountain had other plans. During a stream crossing, our guide’s ATV got stuck in the water. We waited as he tried to free it. He didn’t ask us to continue, and we didn’t insist. The moment passed — and that was okay. We hadn’t reached the end of the trail, but we had touched adventure, and that’s what mattered.

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The Sky View That Wasn’t

Still clinging to the hope of a full view, we decided not to give up. Our phones said the Sky Deck in Tabaco City was just 20 kilometers away — surely, we thought, that’s where Mayon would reveal herself.

So we drove.

The road twisted upward, bringing us closer to the sky, closer — we hoped — to the summit’s crown. But clouds are stubborn things. We arrived at the Sky View, and though the overlook was peaceful, Mayon stayed hidden.

And yet, it felt fulfilling. We'd come this far, we had seen enough to understand the power and allure of this place. Even without the picture-perfect shot, we were content.

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Mayon in Myth and Memory

Mayon isn’t just a volcano. She's a legend.

According to one story, she was once Daragang Magayon — a maiden so beautiful that men from far and wide sought her hand. But her heart belonged to Panganoron, a brave warrior from another tribe. When a jealous suitor, Pagtuga, kidnapped Magayon, Panganoron rushed to her rescue. A fierce battle followed. Both lovers died in each other’s arms. Grief-stricken, Magayon’s father buried her — and from her grave rose the perfect, graceful cone of the volcano.

Locals say that when the clouds gather at the summit, Magayon is weeping. And when thunder rolls across the land, it’s the spirits of Panganoron and Pagtuga clashing once more in the afterlife.

Other tales speak of eruptions as warnings, signs of nature disturbed or ancestral spirits angered. Some even say that Mayon’s perfection is a curse — beauty so flawless it must be respected… or feared.

Nature’s Warning Signs

And there is reason to fear.

Mayon remains one of the most active volcanoes in the Philippines. Her steep slopes are vulnerable to lahar, especially during heavy rains. Landslides, ashfall, and even volcanic earthquakes are real risks. Her surrounding landscape is a testament to both beauty and destruction.

We passed through towns with signs of past eruptions — some subtle, some glaring. It’s a reminder that Mayon doesn’t sleep. She watches, waits, and when she speaks, the world listens.

What We Took Home

In the end, we didn’t get the postcard shot of Mayon. But we got something better: stories, silence, steam rising from the land, the smell of rain and sulfur, the warmth of locals, the sharp kick of Bicol Express, and the hum of an ATV in the mud.

We saw Mayon not as an image, but as an experience.

And maybe that’s the best way to see her — not as a destination, but as a journey.

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Thank you for reading — and see you on the road.

We didn’t get Mayon Volcano’s full reveal — but the journey made up for it! 🚗🌋 From the Cagsawa Ruins to an ATV ride through volcanic trails and a scenic stop in Tabaco City, this Bicol road trip was unforgettable. Watch our adventure now!

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